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Most American women have two things in common: they want to be thin, and they are absolutely convinced they have sensitive skin .... Sensitive has shown up only in the last two decades ... to become the all-encompassing skin term to describe everything from the real (irritation from stinging, burning, blotches, and rashes) to the abstract (how a woman 'feels' about her skin). - Vogue Magazine
This is confirmed by consumer studies which show that over 50% of women surveyed think their skin is sensitive. Sensitive skin is skin that is vulnerable to one or more substances - chemical and/or environmental - which triggers an allergic reaction.
In addition, people are increasingly aware of the vulnerability of their skin and the need to protect against damaging effects of UVA and UVB rays, environmental pollutants, acid rain, and - the most recently identified threat - free radicals.
Sensitive Skin is Beautiful Skin
Sensitive skin is generally translucent and clear - beautiful skin until it flares up when it comes into contact with an irritant. Blood rushes to the surface at the first hint of agitation which leads to blotchiness, splotchiness, and discomfort. Thin skin is almost always sensitive - the epidermal layer is thinner than average and therefore provides less protection for the underlying skin layers. This thinness also makes any changes in the skin's blood circulation more noticeable.
Allergic Reactions - Critical to your Health
While they are uncomfortable and can become unsightly, it is important to remember that allergic reactions are your body's way of defending you from what it considers harmful or life-threatening.
What occurs during an allergic reaction? Your body identifies a substance as hazardous to your well-being. In response, the immune system - specifically the white blood cells - begins production of antibodies. These antibodies then attach themselves to basophils, which are found in the blood, or to mast cells, which are located in the respiratory and gastrointestinal tracts, and in the skin. These antibodies release histamines and/or arachidonic acid which cause inflammations, rashes, runny eyes and nose, itching, and sneezing. The result: an allergic reaction.
We Need to Play Detective
Thus, in order to prevent allergic reactions, we need to play detective to find the substance which triggers this process.
With several thousand ingredients currently being used in formulas and skin care products, the task can be overwhelming. The first task in producing a product for sensitive, easily-irritated skin is, therefore, to identify what types of ingredients trigger the highest percentages of allergic reactions.
Ingredients to Avoid
Dermatological studies of individuals with skin sensitivities have shown over 95% of allergic reactions can be traced to six sources:
- Fragrance - 45%
- Preservatives - 20.7%
- Emulsifiers - 8%
- Toluene Sulfonamide Resin - 6%
- Improperly Purified Lanolin - 5%
- Synthetic UV Absorbers - 5%
The first step, therefore, in developing a product for sensitive and hypersensitive skin is to eliminate these causes of allergic reactions. It is important to remember - in the United States there are no standards to define the term 'hypoallergenic'. Although some manufacturers do clinical testing, many simply eliminate some or all of the substances listed above. It is important to determine the basis on which a manufacturer feels it can base its 'hypoallergenic' claim.
Ingredients to Look For
It is also important to note the biological causes of sensitive skin. They are:
- Defective barrier function of the skin;
- Individual disposition to allergic reactions;
- Temporary hypersensitivity due to mental or physical stress.
Thus, it is important that a product for sensitive skin strengthen the defensive barriers of the skin, protect the skin against environmental allergens and pollutants, and calm inflammations when they cannot be prevented. They must be heavy enough to protect and provide adequate moisture, but be light enough so that they do not destroy elasticity or smother. Products for sensitive skin require a complex mixture of ingredients that work together to meet these many and diverse requirements.
Some herbal ingredients known to be of particular help to sensitive skin include:
Althea (Marshmallow) - Calms, soothes, and nourishes with lecithin and amino acids.
Balm Mint - Soothes.
Horsetail - Increases elasticity and strengthens the skin, due to the action of silicic acid.
Hypericum (St. John's Wort) - Aids healing and strengthens tissue. Soothing, astringent, anti-inflammatory, antibiotic.
Matricaria (Chamomile) - Contains azulene, bisabolol, phytosterol, and numerous other components which combine to soothe inflamed skin and kill bacteria.
Restharrow - Calms and counteracts itching.
Sage - Aids in healing of wounds, anti-inflammatory, toning.
Yarrow - Noted for its anti-inflammatory, toning, and bacteriostatic effect.
It is also important to have antioxidant ingredients such as tocopherol to counteract the damage done by free radicals.
Since sensitive skin is generally thin, it tends to be dry. Thus, a product for sensitive skin should contain botanical moisturizers such as jojoba oil, corn oil, wheat germ oil, safflower oil, and shea butter. Cream has also been used since the time of Cleopatra to soothe and nourish since it is rich in minerals, vitamins, and lecithin.
In addition, James J. Leyden, M.D. of the University of Pennsylvania has been studying the effects of mild alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) solutions on delicate skin. The preliminary findings indicate that regular use over a period of at least six months seems to strengthen the stratum corneum of the epidermis, making it more resistant to potential irritants.
Regular Care is Crucial to Protect and Preserve
People with sensitive or delicate skin often have had bad reactions to skin care products and, therefore, use none at all. This is a big mistake. Delicate skin needs special careful, regular care on a daily basis. The four important steps include:
- Cleansing - to neutralize irritants and gently but thoroughly dissolve dirt and makeup without drying the skin by upsetting its delicate pH balance.
- Toning - to tighten pores, increase elasticity, and strengthen the acid mantle. Since many toners contain plant-based alcohols as astringents, it is especially important to select a toner that is fragrance free, since the vapors of the evaporating alcohol can be irritating.
- Application of a Day Cream - to protect against irritation from environmental pollutants, to protect against free radicals, and to prevent evaporation of moisture from the skin.
- Application of a Night Cream - to moisturize and nourish to help rebuild damaged tissue and counteract damage by free radicals.
Some Final Tips
- Always use sunscreen. SPF should be at least 15 and the product should protect against UVA as well as UVB rays. Products containing micronized earth pigments such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are generally more compatible than products containing synthetic sunscreens. Remember to apply products 20 to 30 minutes before going out in the sun for maximum effectiveness.
- Prevent situations that trigger mental and physical stress by adhering to regular sleep patterns, well-balanced and routine diet patterns, and by avoiding weather extremes.
- Shower after exercising or swimming in salt water or a chlorine pool. The chemicals left on the skin after these activities are especially dryng and irritating.
- Use a gentle laundry detergent, preferably a hypoallergenic one purchased in your local health food store.
- Always use lukewarm water when bathing, showering, or washing face and hands.
Remember - Sensitive skin is beautiful skin. If you take the proper precautions, it will remain that way.
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